What’s in the Kit?
- Pre-colonised shiitake dowels (8mm x 35mm)
- Drill bit with built-in depth stop (to match dowel size perfectly)
- Natural log-sealing wax
- Foam brush (for applying wax)
What You'll Need to Provide
- A freshly cut hardwood log (oak, beech, alder, hazel or similar)
- A power drill
- A mallet or hammer
- A heat source (for melting the wax)
- A sheltered space outdoors for incubation (patio, shady garden area)
Before You Start: Care for the Living Culture
Keep the dowel spawn at room temperature for 2–3 days upon arrival to let the mycelium settle. If you’re not ready to plug your logs straight away, store the dowels in the fridge (not freezer!) in their sealed bag. Take them out 24 hours before use so they can acclimatise to room temperature.
Handle them gently—the mycelium growing on these dowels is alive, and a little love goes a long way.
Step 1: Choosing and Preparing Your Log
Best Wood Types:
Look for recently cut logs from hardwood species like oak, beech, alder, or hazel. Softwoods (like pine or fir) aren’t suitable.
Size:
Ideally, the log should be between 8–20cm in diameter and 50–100cm long. This keeps it manageable and productive.
Timing:
Logs should be cut fresh—ideally within the last 6 weeks—and allowed to rest (or "season") for 2 weeks before plugging. This gives the natural antifungal compounds time to fade, improving colonisation success.
Tip: Avoid logs with visible fungal growth, flaking bark, or signs of rot. The fresher the log, the better the yield.
Step 2: Drilling and Plugging
With your specialist drill bit, drill holes about 5–7cm apart in a staggered (diamond) pattern around the length of the log. The bit is set to the perfect depth—no guesswork required.
- Insert one dowel into each hole.
- Tap them in gently with a mallet or hammer until they’re flush with the surface.
- Don’t worry if they don’t sit perfectly flush—what matters is that the mycelium is in contact with the wood.
Step 3: Waxing the Wounds
Melt the provided sealing wax using a double boiler or a heat-safe container placed in hot water. Don’t use direct flame—it can damage the wax and be unsafe.
Once melted:
- Use the foam brush to dab wax over each plugged hole.
- Also seal any cuts, ends, or wounds in the bark to retain moisture and block contaminants.
Waxing locks in moisture—essential for mycelium to thrive—and keeps unwanted moulds and fungi out.
Step 4: Incubation ("The Spawn Run")
Now it’s time to let the mycelium work its magic. Think of it as composting in reverse: the dowels feed the log, and eventually, the log returns gourmet mushrooms.
Where to Place Your Log:
- Shady, sheltered outdoor space (like under shrubs, behind a shed, or beneath trees)
- Avoid direct sun or wind, which dry the log out
- Raise it slightly off the ground (bricks, pallet, etc.) to improve airflow
How Long?
Colonisation can take 6–18 months depending on wood species and conditions. Yes, it’s slow—but the results are worth the wait.
You’ll know it’s working when white, thread-like mycelium appears at the log’s cut ends. This means the fungi are spreading inside.
Step 5: Fruiting (aka the Fun Bit)
Once the log is fully colonised, it will fruit naturally after heavy rain and temperature shifts, often in spring or autumn.
To encourage fruiting:
- Soak the log in cold water (submerged for 24 hours).
- Return it to a shady, moist spot.
- Wait a few days and—voilà!—mushrooms should begin to form.
Caring for Your Log
- Water during dry spells: If there’s no rain for over a week, give your log a good soak with a hose or watering can.
- Soak yearly in summer: This "maintenance soak" keeps your log hydrated and may trigger extra flushes.
- Avoid contact with soil for shiitake logs—it can introduce competing fungi.
Harvesting & Beyond
Shiitake mushrooms are ready to harvest when the caps are fully expanded but still firm. Twist them gently off the log or cut with a clean knife.
Store in paper bags in the fridge or dry for long-term use. Home-dried shiitakes are unbeatable for soups and broths.
With good care, your log can produce for up to 5–7 years—all from a single afternoon’s work and a little patience.